Sunday, August 23, 2015

Of blogger endorsement



Fashion Cream of the Crop (Source)

Few days ago I posted a rant concerning the changes I have observed over the years in the meaning and usage of fashion blogs. I was wondering if major fashion bloggers were still true to themselves posting about things they like or didn't like or they rapidly became advertisement boards for companies. Interestingly enough, I have stumbled on a new blog called Lawyer in Lanvin  which explores the intertwinement of fashion and law. She recently post an entry on endorsement. 

Apparently, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) , whose main role is to protect American consumers, have made recommendations concerning endorsement strongly advising  bloggers to disclose when a blog post, a tweet, an Instagram post or Facebook post is endorsed by a  brand. These recommendations validate the increasing power of bloggers on consumers. There are no judiciary action in place for those who do not disclose.  But if any is put in place, this might become a very slippery slope and raise many questions...

Although, some bloggers seems to comply to these regulations, I really don't think  that most big bloggers follow them... Also the blogosphere is an international environment with several international stars to follow. Those FTC recommendations only apply to American to my best knowledge  and I am not aware of other countries guidelines on the subject. The average American fashionista can also be influenced by British, Swedish or French bloggers. Would those recommendations apply to them if their blogs is visited by Americans?  Besides celebrities have been known to tacitly endorse brands for a very long time from high end gala dresses to the new trendy diet. Would these recommendations apply to them also eventually? I also wonder if it is in the interest of the blogger to fully disclose all his/her endorsements. I am certain that a growing number of them mostly post endorsements posts now. How would that affect their "genuine" unique style as perceived by their followers? Isn't this authenticity the main advantage for companies to pay these bloggers, so that their posted looks seem genuine; coming from their own imagination?

Although I praise the role of organizations like FTC, I also believe hope that most consumers are not stupid and can navigate through their favourite blogs identifying what they like and dislike, but maybe I am being too optimistic.

As Beeta concluded in her post, we have to wait and see what happens with that.

The FTC has a FAQ page concerning endorsement in general. Here are some interesting questions and answers that apply to fashion blogs :

Isn’t it common knowledge that some bloggers are paid to tout products or that if you click a link on my site to buy a product, I’ll get a commission for that sale?
First, many bloggers who mention products don’t receive anything for their reviews and don’t get a commission if readers click on a link to buy a product. Second, the financial arrangements between some bloggers and advertisers may be apparent to industry insiders, but not to everyone else who reads a blog. Under the law, an act or practice is deceptive if it misleads “a significant minority” of consumers. So even if some readers are aware of these deals, many readers aren’t. That’s why disclosure is important.
Has the FTC been getting complaints about deceptive blogs?
No. As it happens, many bloggers and advertisers already are disclosing their ties to each other. Industry associations and self-regulatory groups advocate disclosure, too.
I’ve read that bloggers who don’t comply with the Guides can be fined $11,000? Is that true?
No. The press reports that said that were wrong. There is no fine for not complying with an FTC guide.
Are you monitoring bloggers?
We’re not monitoring bloggers and we have no plans to. If concerns about possible violations of the FTC Act come to our attention, we’ll evaluate them case by case. If law enforcement becomes necessary, our focus will be advertisers, not endorsers – just as it’s always been.
Do the Guides hold online reviewers to a higher standard than reviewers for paper-and-ink publications?
No. The Guides apply across the board. The issue is – and always has been – whether the audience understands the reviewer’s relationship to the company whose products are being reviewed. If the audience gets the relationship, a disclosure isn’t needed. For a review in a newspaper, on TV, or on a website with similar content, it’s usually clear to the audience that the reviewer didn’t buy the product being reviewed. It’s the reviewer’s job to write his or her opinion and no one thinks they bought the product – for example, a book or movie ticket – themselves. But on a personal blog, a social networking page, or in similar media, the reader may not expect the reviewer to have a relationship with the company whose products are mentioned. Disclosure of that relationship helps readers decide how much weight to give the review.
I’ve heard that every time I mention a product on my blog, I have to say whether I got it for free or paid for it myself. Is that true?
If you mention a product you paid for yourself, the Guides aren’t an issue. Nor is it an issue if you get the product for free because a store is giving out free samples to all its customers. The Guides cover only endorsements that are made on behalf of a sponsoring advertiser. For example, an endorsement would be covered by the Guides if an advertiser – or someone working for an advertiser – pays a blogger or gives a blogger something of value to mention a product, including a commission on the sale of a product. Bloggers receiving free products or other perks with the understanding that they’ll promote the advertiser’s products in their blogs would be covered, as would bloggers who are part of network marketing programs where they sign up to receive free product samples in exchange for writing about them or working for network advertising agencies.
What if all I get from the company is a $1-off coupon, or if the product is only worth a few dollars? Do I still have to disclose?
Here’s another way to think of it: While getting one item that’s not very valuable for free may not affect the credibility of what you say, sometimes continually getting free stuff from an advertiser or multiple advertisers is enough to suggest an expectation of future benefits from positive reviews. If you have a relationship with a marketer who’s sending you freebies in the hope you’ll write a positive review, it’s best if your readers know you got the product for free.
What if I upload a video that shows me using different products? Do I have to disclose whether I bought them myself or got them from an advertiser?
The guidance for videos is the same as for websites or blogs.
What if I return the product after I review it? Should I still make a disclosure?
That may depend on the product and how long you are allowed to use it. For example, if you get free use of a car for a month, a disclosure is recommended even if you return it. But even for less valuable products, it’s best to be open and transparent with your readers.
Several months ago a manufacturer sent me a free product and asked me to write about it on my blog. I tried the product, liked it, and wrote a favorable review. When I posted the review, I disclosed that I got the product for free from the manufacturer. I still use the product. Do I have to disclose that I got the product for free every time I mention it in my blog?
It probably depends on how much you say about it. A casual remark like “I use X brand food processor” may not raise an issue under the Guides, but each new positive endorsement made without a disclosure could be deceptive.
A famous athlete has thousands of followers on Twitter and is well-known as a spokesperson for a particular product. Does he have to disclose that he’s being paid every time he tweets about the product?
It depends on whether his readers understand he’s being paid to endorse that product. If they know he’s a paid endorser, no disclosure is needed. But if a significant number of his readers don’t know that, a disclosure would be needed. Determining whether followers are aware of a relationship could be tricky in many cases, so a disclosure is recommended.
I’m starting a new Internet business.  I don’t have any money for advertising, so I need publicity.  Can I tell people that if they say good things about my business on Twitter and Facebook, I’ll give them a discount on items they buy through my website?
It’s not a good idea. Endorsements must reflect the honest opinions or experiences of the endorser, and your plan could cause people to write positive reviews even if they’ve never done business with you. However, it’s okay to invite people to post reviews of your business after they’ve actually used your products or services. If you’re offering them something of real value in return for these reviews, though, it’s wise to tell them in advance that they should disclose what they received from you. That way, other consumers can decide how much stock to put in those reviews.
Is there special language I have to use to make the disclosure?
No. The point is to give readers the information. Your disclosure could be as simple as “Company X gave me this product to try . . ..”
Do I have to hire a lawyer to help me write a disclosure?
No. What matters is effective communication, not legalese. A disclosure like “Company X sent me [name of product] to try, and I think it’s great” gives your readers the information they need. Or, at the start of a short video, you might say, “Some of the products I’m going to use in this video were sent to me by their manufacturers.” That gives the necessary heads-up to your viewers.
I’m an affiliate marketer with links to an online retailer on my website. When people click on those links and buy something from the retailer, I earn a commission. What do I have to disclose? Where should the disclosure be?
Let’s assume that you’re endorsing a product or service on your site and you have links to a company that pays you commissions on sales. If you disclose the relationship clearly and conspicuously on your site, readers can decide how much weight to give your endorsement. In some instances, where the link is embedded in the product review, a single disclosure may be adequate. When the product review has a clear and conspicuous disclosure of your relationship – and the reader can see both the product review and the link at the same time – readers have the information they need. If the product review and the link are separated, the reader may lose the connection.
As for where to place a disclosure, the guiding principle is that it has to be clear and conspicuous. Putting disclosures in obscure places – for example, buried on an ABOUT US or GENERAL INFO page, behind a poorly labeled hyperlink or in a terms of service agreement – isn’t good enough. The average person who visits your site must be able to notice your disclosure, read it and understand it.
What are the essential things I need to know about using endorsements in advertising?
The most important principle is that an endorsement has to represent the accurate experience and opinion of the endorser:
  • You can’t talk about your experience with a product if you haven’t tried it.
  • If you were paid to try a product and you thought it was terrible, you can’t say it’s terrific.
  • You can’t make claims about a product that would require proof you don’t have. For example, you can’t say a product will cure a particular disease if there isn’t scientific evidence to prove that’s true.


All this is very interesting! Although they are no judicial consequences to not disclose endorsement, it can have a great impact on your relationship with your followers. Even though most many of the current it-girl blogs have lost their appeal to me, they start little and their fanbase has been built on their authenticity and accessibility.  And a lack of the former could take that fame from them. So disclose when you should; you will be happy the day problems knock at your door.



Tuesday, August 18, 2015

A reflection on the evolution of fashion blogs



Super bloggers at the Fashion blogger Awards (Source)


I remember when I first started scrolling through fashion blogs back in early 2005.  I was a poor university student who was fed up with over-styled  fashion magazine editorials full of clothes worth more than my monthly salary. Fashion blogs were a great alternative forming a heteroclite mix of interesting people from around the globe showcasing their style. Fashion blogging wasn't about what you wore, but how you wore it. I created folders full of different outfits to help me dress up in the morning. Those blogs helped me discover my style and dress differently with what I already had.

The expression "street style" was pronounced from the mouth of every fashion aficionados. It embodied the reappropriation of fashion by those who wore it most: us, common people. It was the symbol of trends created in the streets and staying in them while, sometimes, being adopted by the lords of the runways. It was an empowering expression.

Then came the super blogs....The super blogs were (and still are) attracting thousands of viewers everyday. So much, that their authors gained recognition out of the blogosphere and the Internet with invitation to fashion events,  creative collaborations and modelling contracts. 
We then all wanted to be a super blogger and live up to their fame. However, the super bloggers weren't as diverse as their forefathers. I have noted a few prerequisites needed to propulse your fashion blog to the super blog status:
1. Be young
2. Be skinny 
3. Have an excellent camera and a boyfriend or a girlfriend who constantly wants to take pictures of you in various settings
4. Have a lot of time on your hand to blog
5. And most importantly, have A LOT of designer clothes...regardless of your chosen style. Designer clothes are a must. Period.

If you failed to fulfill one of these prerequisites, it was unlikely that your blog would reach the super ones' status.

Sometimes I would look at these teenagers or very young adults still in college and wonder where they get the money to fill their wardrobe with Rick Owens, Dolce Gabbana or Isabel Marant clothes...Probably not working as a receptionist as I did for sure.  I've soon learned that many of them were actually showcasing FREE items sent to them by designers and brands. My first reaction was jealousy. Then I asked myself: " How can they still express their style with all these unselected freebies? Is this only marketing now?"  It was the epiphany. It is not about style anymore, but marketing.
Modelling designer clothes was increasing traffic to the super bloggers' blogs and brands were getting free advertisement in return. The moment a given blogger put a certain Acne coat or Isabel Marant shoes, these items were sold out in stores in the next few days. Everybody wanted (and still wants) to dress like them. They became the incarnation of style and fashion.

Rapidly blogging became about what you wear and not how you wear it anymore. I am no stranger to that way of thinking. Several things currently on my wishlist were seen on a super blogger first.

Copycat blogs emerged of girls showing their new Balenciaga City bag, but still wearing Target t-shirts with Zara pants. They call it mixing chic and cheap, but I call it " I cannot dress with designer clothes from head to toe, so I invested only in this bag..."I wonder how many of these copycats got into financial trouble because of that. I sure know a few...

Street style lost its first definition. It is not a style created and owned by common people anymore, but  mainly clothes worn by runway people off the runway with runway clothes. No style can be identify from most of these new street style models. They all seem to dress the same way. Their style is rather an assembly of current and past fashion it-items. 

The fashion blog killed the magazine, but it feels to me that in 2015 I am back with the same dilemma I had in 2005. I see a lot of unaffordable beautiful clothes on women that do not look like me and to whom I can't relate.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Of Personalizing Bags (part 2)

Anya Hindmarch maxi stickered Ebury bag



Remember that post on personalized bags a few years ago? Fast forward almost three years later and my targeted bag hasn't been "personalized" much. I've brought it to a few destinations abroad but decorating it was the least of my worries while relaxing on white sanded beaches, exploring the luxurious green rainforest or enjoying the vibrant local nightlife.  

Upon reconsideration, since it is a travelling bag that I am planning to bring even in the most remote places,  it wouldn't be wise to decorate it with stickers indicating my nationality and all the places I have visited for my own safety. 

So that idea slipped away from my mind...until I saw this version of Anya Hindmarch Ebury bag a few weeks ago! At $3500, I could only sigh and admire it until it sells out. I visited the designer's website for the first time today out of curiosity to see what else she has to offer and I have learned that the stickers can be sold individually to personalize any item you want. These stickers are made of high quality leather and each season the house issues new ones. 

This is the perfect excuse to find myself a new off-duty day bag to personalize (the one I've had for the last 10 years is starting to fall apart anyways) . At £45 each,  these stickers are not cheap and I'll have to choose them wisely.

Monday, May 11, 2015

Spring


I was buried under a heavy load of work whipping me with periodic deadlines these last few months. As Spring slowly replaces the long and biter winter we've had, I start to breathe again and enjoy the small things of life that surrounds me including this blog that is in serious need of futile questioning on clothes and related subjects.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Minimus maximae



Anna Piaggi via The Sartorialist

"If you become a billionaire, would you stop treating your wardrobe in such a pragmatic way?" 

The question popped from my younger sister during our family Thanksgiving dinner as I was explaining to my perplexed parents why I was wearing only "new" clothes at the dinner. I knew I should have worn something they already saw before to avoid that situation... Nevertheless, it was a good question and I didn't really know what to answer at the moment. 
"I guess no, why for?" I finally said. Why would I need to manage my wardrobe if I had a closet the size of my current apartment and money to empty Holt Renfew weekly? 


The turnover in my wardrobe has been indeed quite fast in the last few months as I am selling and tossing away a numerous amount of barely used clothes to replace them with new items from my wish list. The whole effort aims at creating a rather minimal but complete wardrobe of quality garments. 

I have often wondering if my recent attraction for minimalism as an expression of quantity rather than a form of aesthetics stemmed from my limited budget or from a genuinely desire to live with less.  But I never paused and frankly thought about it. My budget must have an preponderant weight in the balance. To what extend? I don't know, but I don't think it is the sole explanation...

Although I admire the uniqueness of fashion icons like Anna Piaggi and Anna Dello Russo, there is something in their ever changing electric style that triggers headaches in my migrainous mind. Something that made me uneasy when I used to have over 300 pairs of shoes and 30 coats... 

I used to think that it was culpability of my consumerist lifestyle, always wanting more and never being satisfied, while others are starving elsewhere on the globe. Although I found it is slightly plausible and praiseworthy, I have to be realistic with myself. I don't really have altruistic thoughts when I am looking at my closet or hesitating to buy yet another pair of flats.  

It might be that emptiness I am always talking about...Filling inner holes with materialistic things. Isn't this blog all about the catharsis of those inner demons pushing me to fill these holes in that rather shallow way? Time will tell. I am still in the midst of the process of healing to express a rational opinion on that...

What about the fact of filling the physical space in my apartment. My clothes used to take a lot of space in my bedroom...They were in the closet, in the cabinets, on the wall, under the bed, etc. The last time I moved, I had more boxes of clothes and shoes than anything else...
As a person whose mind ressembles a post-apocalyptic city in ruins, I need order around me to balance that inner chaos. I used to feel as overwhelmed in front my overpacked closet as I felt in front my disorganized desk when I had too much work to do. I didn't know where to look, what to pick, what to start with. I didn't have any structure. Any guideline to tell me where I am at.  Where I am heading.

I needed to minimize that wardrobe to know where I am going with it and how it serves me as a consider a wardrobe to be more than just a pile of clothes. And looking at a neatly ordered closet of items that have all been coveted, that I am well aware of the existence and that serve a specific purpose really soothes me. It soothes my morning routines.

I tend to think (to hope) that the volume of the sartorial preoccupations in my mind would decrease proportionately to the volume occupied by my garments. I cannot cry victory just yet, but I am heading in the right direction.

So even if I become a multimillionaire, I will probably never own Mrs Piaggi wardrobe. Not knowing everything that hides in there would annoy me. 



Monday, October 6, 2014

Off the wish list: Dieppa Restrepo Dina shoes

Dieppa Restrepo Mint Dina shoes


Thanks to Ebay I was able to finally put my hands on these lovely shoes which were sold out everywhere! I was actually looking for the seafoam version, but mint was a good alternative. 
Dieppa Restrepo truly makes beautiful well-crafted shoes that are made to last. Their price refrains me from emptying the online store though. Luckily, I was able to grab this pair for a steal. 
Unfortuantely, God has punished the shoe lover that I am with feet of different sizes... My heel is coming out of one shoe and my toes are a bit squeezed in the other one.....
I love them so much that I will endure the discomfort for the moment hoping that time and wear will stretch the smaller shoe.

Off the wishlist: Vintage oversized long wool cardigan



The perfect oversized cardigan (Source)

The above picture of model Sasha Luss sparked the interest and so started the search. Suddenly, I wanted an oversized thick long cardigan for early Fall. 


Acne Studios Raya long cardigan


I fell upon several designer models including Acne Studios' Raya long cardigan which was almost perfect. However it is a bit too thin for my liking considering its price. Most of the cardigans I've found were actually way too thin for the weather we are experiencing above the 45th parallel.




And then I stumbled upon this beautiful on Etsy.
Really thick wool? Check.
Oversized?  Check.
Neutral colours? Check...
Waist pockets? Check!!
Long enough to sweep my ankles? Check !!!
Grad student wallet friendly ? DOUBLE CHECK!!!

 I don't understand why the 28 persons who "liked" it were waiting for. They will regret it later...I snatched it the minute I saw it! 
I wore it a few times since I got it. It is really comfortable and warm. It is actually a bit too much oversized for me though, but I'll get used to it...
The only thing missing for it to be perfect are 2-3 big front buttons. They make the perfect excuse for a future DIY project though.